Q – The window switch for the right window on my 944 feels funny and only the switch on the right door activates the window. I could just buy a switch but I hate to waste the money if it won’t fix the problem. What do you suggest? Bill
Well Bill, you might need the switch but first, does the switch feel “cocked” and mushy? If so, it is broken and you will need the new one. The plastic “hinge” occasionally breaks. Now if the switch feels good but simply does not work, try swapping switches to see if the problem follows the switch. If it does, then try cleaning the switch with “contact cleaner” which you can buy at Radio Shack. This works 50% of the time for me. Don’t be surprised if the switch does not instantly begin to work. The contact cleaner must evaporate after application. Most switches on older cars get funky just due to our corrosive environment rather than wear. — MC
Q – My Carrera 2 stalls right after I start it in the morning. It always starts right back up but it never used to do this. It was an occasional problem but now it happens every time in the morning. Fred
Good news on two counts: 1) it happens all the time (intermittent problems drive me nuts) and 2) the cure is relatively easy.
When you turn your car off, the fuel system retains pressure in the lines just like your water faucet at home. Coincidently, the retained pressure for a home water system and fuel injection system are about the same, roughly 40 PSI. If the pressure leaks down, you would never know it since it leaks back into the fuel tank. This is a very common problem with many fuel injected cars as they age.
The cure involves first verifying the problem. In this case, a fuel pressure test will tell the story. When the engine is running, the pressure should measure a certain PSI and when you shut the car off, it will drop (but not to zero). If the fuel pressure drops too low, when you turn the key, it will take a few seconds until pressure builds. If the fuel pump check valve is the source of the pressure drop, the part is inexpensive and the labor is not bad either. Once pressure is retained, the car will start and run just as you remember it. — MC
Hi MC I am one of the forgotten club members. I have a 1987 928 S4 (a.k.a. Shark) with about 85,000 miles on it. The car is all over the road and it follows the ruts like they were railroad tracks. I was hoping that I just need an alignment but a friend says that the shocks are shot. This is my first Porsche and I was warned that the purchase price is just the cost of admission, so I am ready to fix it. But where should I start? Jeff
A – Since this car is new to you, an inspection will reveal issues that may affect the alignment or ride of the car and you should start there. If you can get under the car with the technician, he can show you the obvious problems and then prioritize them for you. Finally, aligning a 928 is a lot different than aligning most cars. Porsche provides many adjustments to perfect the handling of the car and aligning these cars is a science. But, back to the basics, start with the tires. Are they actually round? Are the wheels straight? What is the correct inflation? It may sound elementary but what most people think is “an alignment” is usually something else. If you have never driven a car before with really wide tires, even when the tires are perfect, the car will tend to “track” depending on the road surface. This alone can be very disconcerting if you don’t expect it. Of course, if you find a problem with the tires, you probably DO need an alignment, as well as all the other parts that keep the suspension in alignment.
The car is “suspended” by control arms, ball joints, bushings, springs, and shocks. Steering consists of the tie rods, tie rod ends, steering rack, steering shaft and more of those rubber bushings. At 85K miles and 20 years of age, any of these parts might need to be replaced for the chassis to respond to alignment. For instance, your chiropractor will not be able to adjust your broken leg.
An alignment is done “statically” (with the car standing still), on a pedestal called an “alignment rack”. As you drive your 928, the force of the road, the weight of the car, and the power transmitted by the engine and brakes conspire to “change the alignment” dynamically. Since your car was designed to cruise at 130 MPH, the suspension is biased towards stiffness and stability. The oddest part of a 928 alignment is that even lifting the car during the process changes the ride height and attitude of the chassis. The trick is getting the alignment adjusted while the car is resting on its weight without raising it.
Once the worn parts are replaced, the new shocks installed and tires verified, your 928 will track just like the Road and Track test when you lusted after it in the 80’s. Try 27 north of Cadillac with your Valentine One at about 135. See what I mean? These cars are Autobahn cruisers. My view is that 928’s are the 80’s version of the Hudson Terraplane. Google it. — MC
Q – Help! My 96 Turbo is making me crazy. I love the car but I can’t stand it any more. It smokes so badly that I could fog for mosquitoes and charge for it. The final straw was when I started it last week and my neighbor came over and asked if he should call the fire department. I am serious! I even made a video of it. And to make matters worse, now it acts like I am losing power and I feel a hesitation.
It only has 20K on the odometer. I have religiously followed the dealer’s recommendation about oil and filters and it has never been anywhere BUT the dealer. Last visit, my service advisor said that the smoke was normal and that I should change to a heavier grade of oil. What could have gone wrong with it? Dave
A – Dave, I emphasize with you. I had to quit driving my turbo when it had the same problem. I couldn’t take it to parties any more, it was embarrassing! Fortunately your turbo can’t have the same problem as mine. From repeated flogging, I roasted the oil seals in mine. At 20k, I am certain that is NOT your problem.
It is an easily corrected design flaw. When Porsche redesigned the turbo for the early 90’s, they mounted two turbos, down low in the chassis for faster acceleration and packaging. They also provided an oil reservoir for fresh oil at each turbo. The problem is, when you turn the engine off, residual oil, under pressure…fills the turbos and causes the smoke on start up. I would bet that this IS your problem.
The cure consists of two new oil lines with check valves to shut off oil flow after the engine is shut down. Unfortunately, many of these cars were diagnosed with “bad turbos” which of course did not cure the problem. For a time, while the cars were under warranty, Porsche would fix them free with updated lines. Although it is expensive, once you have the kit installed and clean up the mess, there is no permanent damage. It is a lot less expensive than replacing the turbos.
Even so, for a while the car will still smoke. I prescribe a fast drive on an unobstructed stretch of road to literally “blow out the pipes” This will clean some of the oil residue out of the turbos, pipes, intercooler and the intake. The oxygen sensors (a vital fuel trim component) are certainly coated with oil residue and it takes heat and time before the car will regain full power.
As far as the advice you received, service campaigns, updates, and recalls are the tools that an advisor should utilize when giving advice. You would be doing him a service to let him know about the cure if he ever runs into this again. As many professionals will tell you, free advice is usually worth what you pay for it and he simply did not do the research.
And although this might cure the smoking problem, what about your mental health? The answer for you may be “auto therapy”. Auto therapy requires discipline and repeated test drives. After a dozen or so smokeless start ups, you should start feeling better. Meditation in your car will also help with your therapy. My personal motorhead mantra is “c….h….r….o….m….e”. Take a deep breath and try to say it very slowly so the sound creates a resonance in your head. I also recommend auto yoga which involves various postures and movements which will improve concentration and promote a feeling of deep peace and contentment. Some hacks have called this “detailing” but they miss the point. It works for me. Try it.
As far as the neighbor, next time you see him, ask that smart aleck if he would care for a ride. Then slip it into first, smoke all four tires, snatch a few gears, and then tell him to hold on while you do a “brake test”. It may not change his mind, but for a few seconds, he will be speechless. And Porsche glory is restored. — MC
Q – I just bought a 1989 944 Turbo with only 27,000 miles. I love the car but the clutch pedal is very hard to push. My wife has a hard time driving the car. Is this normal for a turbo or will I need a new clutch? Harry
A – Cross your fingers, you may be in luck. The clutch linkage can be accessed from under the car once the starter is removed. It probably dried up while sitting around in storage. Once the starter is out of the way, the “clutch operating shaft” and most of the linkage parts can be lubed. At the conclusion of this process, I bet you will like your clutch action and your wife will too. If this doesn’t help, consider you wife’s taste in jewelery since the price of a clutch can really raise an eyebrow when the bill arrives. MC
Q – I know this is an odd problem but I am at my wits end. I have a 58 Porsche and it will not crank reliably. I have replaced the starter, the battery, wire harness, and ignition switch but sometimes it still won’t crank. On a car this nice, it is very embarrassing. Got any ideas? I spent a ton of money on it already. Hans
A – Hans, you have fired the “parts cannon” at the problem. On the other hand, it feels good to know that all those parts are new. On an older Porsche, you probably needed all those parts. My guess is that the solenoid is not getting full voltage all the time. The cure may be simpler than you think.
The cause of the symptom can be definitively tested by a qualified auto electrician through “voltage drop testing”. The starter solenoid requires a strong electrical signal. If enough voltage is lost, the starter will not crank.
Many people install a relay as a quick fix or “band aid” rather than finding the problem. I endorse band aids as long as you know that they are band aids. Although this may cure the cranking symptom, it may not address dim headlights, headlights that pause between high and low beam, or slow turn signals. In addition, with excess voltage drop, the charging system may malfunction and overcharge or undercharge the battery. This can make a big mess of your trunk.
Problems I have found are incorrect or corroded ground straps, loose bolts to the ground strap, faulty main battery cable (it is quite long), sleazy emergency battery terminals, poor crimps, and old terminals. The key issue to remember that circuits which test OK for resitance or voltage may not carry current (load). I have been fooled (and embarrassed) by a brand new ground strap with a new bolt. Unfortunately, it was screwed into a rusty bracket redundantly bolted to the frame.
You can test continuity or excellent static voltage and it can all seem fine. But when you load the circuit, it may not cut the mustard. Loading the circuit and measuring actual voltage drop is the only way to know where the problem lies and confirming the repair.
I watched a technician replace a horn, clean the horn contacts and replace the terminals at both ends of the wire. And he spent a fair amount of time doing all this. Still the horn sounded sick. The wire looked fine but when the horn was honked, it lost 1.1 volts. With a new power wire, that beeper blasted with a voltage drop of only.03 volt. You decide, parts cannon or diagnosis? — MC
Q – My radio reception is terrible. It was so bad that I replaced the stereo but it didn’t help. Every time I take it in for service, it works fine but whenever I get out of the city I can’t pick anything up. The antenna is built into the windshield and it was cracked so I replaced it. I hoped that this would help but still nothing. The shop even tried another stereo but it made no difference. The antenna cable looks fine. Mark
A – Mark, you must live in the boonies. But seriously, check the antenna cable resistance and I bet you will find the problem. My guess is that the center lead has broken by tugging on the cable rather than the plug. Besides, it’s the only thing left!
Q – I have a 1984 Targa and my windows go up too high. It makes it hard to shut the door unless I lower the window a little. The window hits side of the weather-stripping and then the window sticks out. It also leaks! I removed the door panel and I could see a stop for the window with a chunk of plastic. It looks bent. What do you suggest? John T.
A – Porsche offers a repair part for the window regulator that can be installed once the regulator is removed. It is stronger than the original and will probably last another twenty years or so. The other option is a new, improved window regulator. It is a more robust design and a permanent cure but it requires slight modifications to fit. The part costs about two hundred dollars but if you enjoy tinkering, for about 20 bucks, you can save the extra cash and take your wife out for a really nice dinner in your Porsche. MC
Q – I have a 1985 Carrera and since it is my first Porsche, I probably got in a little over my head but here goes. It has an oil leak at the pipe connecting the engine to the oil thermostat (it’s the one with two solid steel ends and some braided hose in the middle). I was thinking of changing it myself but I discovered that it takes special tools to get it off the thermostat and what’s worse, the hose costs $284.00! I didn’t realize that this car would be so expensive and it looks like a bear to replace. Chuck
A – First, Chuck, I understand your pain. Older Porsches can lighten your wallet faster than a 6 horsepower shop vac. But after 20 years or so, you have to plan to repace all those hoses so don’t be surprised when the next one starts to leak. As a band aid, I have found a simple and cheesy solution to your dilemma. You can rest assured; it is not endorsed by Porsche nor is it a guaranteed fix. But it works.
The flexible part of the hose is probably leaking. It is secured by crimped-on clamps called ferrules. When the hose is new and flexible, these make a fine seal. But eventually the hose ages and shrinks, the fit loosens and seepage begins. You might also notice some discoloration around other hoses on the car that are clamped with ferules. While you are looking, check the two oil pipes under the right rocker panel. They are often damaged and are easily crushed.
If oil is seeping out the ferrules, reclamping might help. To remove the ferrule, you will need to cut them and split them before trying to remove them from the hose. The easiest method for this is a high speed cutting disc. You may have to make three or four cuts to weaken them sufficiently. Do not cut into the hose itself or you will be ordering that hose.
Once they are cut, squash them with Channel Lock pliers and remove the pieces. Replace the ferrules with two hose clamps per end (insurance). After you clean up the mess (with Gunk Engine Brite and a power wash) you can inspect the hose to see if it worked. If it does, you have solved it temporarily for ten dollars and about two hours of your time. — MC
Q – My 87 944 has been running like a top and I love the car. Recently I took it in for routine service and the shop found a “chocolate mike shake” in the coolant bottle. I did not notice an overheating or any symptom at all but they are telling me that I have either a blown head gasket or oil cooler problem. Help! Jerry
A – Since your car has not overheated, it is unlikely that your head gasket has failed. Usually when we see a coolant bottle with the milk shake consistency, the oil cooler is the culprit. This is now a common problem with many mid eighties 924 and 944 models. I would suggest that anyone who is considering a car of this vintage factor this repair into the budget since, sooner or later, it will need to be done.
Another concern that ought to be checked is whether the oil in the car has coolant in it or not. If it does not, you win and you might be able to simply have the cooler resealed, the system flushed out, and be on your way. If there is coolant in the oil, that is an entirely different scenario. Either way, you should not drive your car until it is repaired. MC.