Q – I own a 91 Carrera 4 and I love the car, the color, the interior, the sound…the whole package. I would love it a lot more if I could drive it in the summer but I can’t because it leaks oil and the AC has never worked well for me.
I heard that the AC systems in these cars are really inadequate and that R-12 coolant is very hard to find. I have never really had it checked out. Last year was really a scorcher and we drove it only 300 miles. Two years ago, I had a major service: spark plugs, valve adjustment and had some oil leaks fixed but last year, the oil leaks were back. I took it back to my guy and he tells me that the engine needs to be removed to replace the camshaft seal, something he did not work on before. So I am thinking that since I don’t drive it, I might want to sell it. A family member expressed interest and I would want to get it fixed up before I sell it. I am looking for a second opinion. What do you recommend? Pete
A – First of all, I feel your pain! When the AC doesn’t work, it is hard to get your honey to ride in the car! Oil leaks are another very annoying bad habit that some old Porsches have. I hate that stuff however, it’s job security. We will start peeling the layers of this onion and as with an onion, there may be tears. Hopefully you will not be crying a river.
Starting with the oil leaks first, the only external “cam seal” on your motor is called the power steering pump drive output shaft seal. They rarely leak but since the area is all wet, it is a possibility. The power steering pump sits right above that area so it must be considered a potential source as well. Since the motor can shift around on its mounts, the lines that attach to the pump can loosen up or shrink. This IS a common source of leaks in that area. But diagnosis is where you begin.
I would remove all the external shrouds that conceal the valve covers, etc. Then, wash the engine with a cleaning solvent such as “Gunk Engine Brite”. This is almost always necessary, because oil leaks on 911’s usually go on for quite some time before they ever make their way to the ground; as they ooze slowly, the oil mixes with dirt and creates a wide-spread film of dirty, oily paste. This residue obscures the original source of the leak, a sort of “trees for the forest” camouflage.
After scrubbing and brushing the oily residue off the engine, add leak detection dye. After warming the engine up, the suspect areas can be viewed with ultraviolet light and the easy leaks can be spotted. Then the car needs a good long test drive up to full operating temperature to locate the smaller hard to find leaks. Bear in mind that there are so many areas that can leak, and so few that are easy to actually view with the naked eye, that leak detection can involve multiple rounds of detection and repair. It can be incredibly difficult to be sure you’ve found them all. Don’t get discouraged! Every little bit helps.
I would be surprised if the areas that were resealed 300 miles ago are leaking but it has happened before. On the 964 and 993 engines, every one I have seen eventually leaks from the valve covers, the timing chain boxes, or covers. The youngest one was only 10 years old with 17,000 miles. The material was changed during the design of the 3.4 & 3.6 engines; where aluminum and gaskets were used on the older 3.2 liter engines, now magnesium and O-rings are the new standard. To keep the magnesium from corroding, the parts were powder coated. This is a definite improvement, but moisture works its way into the cracks between components. This process lifts the powder coating and causes the underlying magnesium to corrode extensively. The O-rings harden, oil begins to seep, it ends up on the exhaust system and then your sweetie says, “What’s that burning odor?” Annoying, isn’t it?
When restoring these surfaces there are three things that I recommend. First, the channels where the O-rings sit need to be media blasted (and for good measure I usually prep the more visible exterior as well). Then, a couple coats of good quality paint are applied, taking care to block off any oil passages or threaded holes to avoid clogging them with paint. Finally, during installation, a light layer of RTV oil resistant silicone sealant is applied to fill the space in the channels around the seals and O-rings. The sealant not only keeps the oil in, it also helps keep moisture out of the cracks. The securing studs and nuts should not normally leak or seep but they do. I seal these too.
Resealing the power steering pump drive sprocket seal is tricky. Your former mechanic is right about removing the motor. Information in my data bases agree with him. However, that is not how I would do it. If you remove the passenger’s side heater box, you can remove the aluminum casting which holds the seal and O-ring for the power steering pump drive. This method will save hundreds of dollars alone. Corrosion is almost never a problem with that area since it is aluminum. When the casting removed and the area exposed, you can more easily see the power steering pump and determine what is actually leaking. While you are in there, preemptively replace the crush washers that seal the hose fittings.
On the AC issue, R-12 Freon is getting hard to find and very expensive too. Shops that service older classics have this, but it’s getting more expensive by the year. You may want to consider changing the system over to the less-expensive R-134, but that’s a different forum! The place to begin is with a test of pressures and inspection for wetness around the O-ring seals where rubber hoses meet the metal components.
A hard to find slow leak that is common to these models is often found at the filter/dryer which is located in the left front wheel well…hiding behind the inner fender liner! Assuming that you have no obvious leaks, have the system charged, look again for leaks, and cross your fingers. This might take a few tries. Systems that have been dormant for years will often leak just after a fresh charge since seals and O-rings can shrink from lack of use. It is a challenge to keep an older AC system working reliably but for me, I gotta’ have it! There is nothing I like better than driving my Porsche with the top down on a hot summer day with a cool breeze in my face, stereo blasting.
Yes you face some challenges and potentially expensive repairs. That is always tough when you just want to drive and enjoy your car. You are a fine gentleman for putting the car in top shape for your relative. But once it is cool again, not smelling, nor dripping oil, I bet that you will think twice about letting it go. Remember the joy your felt when it was fresh and new? You can have it all again. MC
Q – My 1990 Carrera recently developed a light rattling sound on light acceleration that disappeared on deceleration or at higher speeds. My research on the web pointed out problems with the timing chain ramps, hydraulic tensioners, or a weak or broken valve spring. My mechanic, by process of elimination, ruled out all those things and determined that the noise was coming from inside the engine. I had it removed and dismantled. During the process, we found oily dirt packed into the right front cylinders cooling fins. They were completely clogged. As we took it apart, we found evidence of overheating on only that one cylinder, a loose wrist pin bushing and a rod bearing that had clearly overheated and in turn…damaged the crankshaft. I have never tracked the car and have owned it since new. Even though it had 149,000 miles on it, could the damage to the rod bearing be caused by the clogged fins? I never saw a warning light or got any indication of a problem by any of the gauges but now my entire engine needs to be overhauled. Fred
A – Your conclusion makes sense to me. The gauges take an average of all six cylinders. It would not have spotted only one cylinder and there is no warning light to alert you for this problem. On the earlier cars, the oil cooler was usually the part that got clogged up first and when it did, the oil temperature would rise. The oil cooler on your car is not mounted in that corner of the engine. With your engine, you would never know there was a problem until you heard the sound. So this begs the question could anyone have known that your cooling fins could be clogged? Frankly, until I heard your story, I would not have thought to check. The cylinders and heads are completely obscured by the fan, fan shroud, and intake manifold. One could argue that 149K is a good lifespan for any engine but you have to wonder “what if”. I am sorry that your engine suffered this catastrophe but thanks for sharing it with other Carrera owners who have a similar car. I will recommend a visual inspection with a borescope as cheap insurance against clogged cooling fins from now on. MC
Q – My Boxster S just got its SECOND main seal and when the technician was inspecting it, he mentioned that it also had a leaking oil separator. What annoys me is why another mechanic who recently inspected my car did not tell me about the leaking main seal or the separator. I found out after my car left a puddle in my garage. Now I am suspicious about the inspection that I had. — Peter
A – Clearly two main seals is one too many and right off the bat, one has to wonder about why a quality part, installed by a quality tech, could fail so soon after replacement. I sense your frustration. Comebacks occur but the real measure of your service provider is the way you are treated in that situation. Oil seals are tricky to install and require special tools to do so properly. It has happened to me too. I am sorry you had to go through it twice and I hope that this is the end of that story for a good long time.
Oil separators are common failing parts. They are made of plastic that becomes brittle with age and heating/cooling cycles. Replacement is often recommended when removing the engine on many Porsches both early and late based on overlapping labor savings so who knows whether the leak was from one or both components. It was still a good idea to replace it.
As far as your inspection, technicians who perform inspections have a vested interest in doing a thorough job and calling out things that are amiss. Typically, inspecting a car leads to servicing the car. I can only speculate that the leak was too small to detect or developed after the inspection. From a technician’s perspective, when wetness is noted, a value judgment of severity is rendered. Is it just showing a discoloration? Is it seeping, showing signs of dampness; or is there an active drip coming from the component? When a technician calls an oil leak a high priority, it can be very expensive advice. It has to be tempered by the severity of the leak, the cost of repairs, and possible consequences of doing nothing but monitoring the leak. For a car that has been on the road for a number of years, it is not uncommon to see wetness oozing from various places. To determine severity, if the leak is subtle, I recommend an engine wash followed by ultraviolet leak detection. After the wash, dye is added then the affected area is viewed with specialized glasses after a short test drive. If it does not show up directly, a re-inspection a few days later is in order. Leaks can be more than annoying but sometimes the cure is worse than the disease. MC
Q – Well MC, you were right. I forgot to plug my battery tender in to my Cayman S and the battery went dead again. I only let it sit for six weeks! So now, after charging it up, as I open my doors, the windows drop down a little but when I shut the door, they don’t go up. Can this be corrected by re-programming? Help! –Teddy
A – You have to admit, I tried to warn you! This time of year, every spring, I get dozens of calls and this bit of advice may save you a big wad of money. Don’t try to start your Porsche when the battery is dead! Jumping a car with a dead battery will spike the electrical system as soon as the car starts and the jumper battery is disconnected, and may cause expensive damage! Be patient. Charge the battery first.
On the newer cars, there are multiple computers that are sensitive to voltage spikes. Even on Carreras from the eighties, it is highly risky. You can melt your alternator harness or your alternator by trying to charge a dead battery. Bosch attaches a red tag to their alternators warning against the practice. The only thing that one can safely do with a dead battery is charge it with a battery charger or replace it.
As far as re-programming, I suggest that you try it; but only the dealer can do it. Choose a provider, there are four in Metro Detroit that strive to provide quality service. One trick that I have had success with is to disconnect the battery and connect the positive and negative cables together to discharge the capacitors and essentially re-boot the computers.
The last time I ran into this symptom, however, both window regulators were diagnosed as “bad,” and had to be replaced and reprogrammed at a cost of about $1,300! The only saving grace was the extended warranty that the client had purchased on the car. He only had to pick up $250 of the cost. –MC
Q I’m new to the club, but I’ve been reading your articles in P4’s I’ve borrowed from friends for some time now. On my 84 944 the shifter was very loose and sloppy. I remembered that you mentioned in an earlier article that the shift levers had a tendency to wear in an odd “football” shaped pattern where the pin for the rod goes through the fore / aft rod. Well, I bought a new lever and removed the old one. I discovered that someone beat me to it. The lever looked like new. The problem was the fore / aft rod where it fits onto the lever. The eye in the rod had worn like an hourglass. After doing my online research and discovering what a P.I.T.A. the rod replacement was going to be, I got creative. I found that a 45 caliber shell casing was a very nice fit onto the lever. I bored the rod true, cut the shell casing down, and it made a very nice bushing. I know that you usually get to answer the questions so here is my tip for you! And can I return the lever? Joe
A – Great idea Joe! I am happy to share it with your fellow 944 owners. Since you are a new member, welcome to the club! Clean your new toy up and show it off. MC
Q – On my 1987 944S I recently replaced my alternator. After a few miles, my belt began to squeal on start up. I expected that the belt would need to be re-adjusted and I did so. After a few thousand miles the belt started squealing again. This time when I went to adjust the belt and the adjuster strut (turnbuckle) that has eye screws on either end had broken even though I was very careful not to over tighten it. At $63.00 for a new part I don’t want to have the problem again. What happened? Eric
A – There are three causes that I am aware of. I will assume you are not a gorilla and properly tightened the turnbuckle securing bolts and lock nuts. Over-torque will break them every time since the thread root diameter of the eye screw is only 9 mm. So that leaves the other two.
When you loosen the alternator mounting bolts and the turnbuckle to make the adjustment, be sure that you tighten them back up. There is a “whole lotta shakin goin’ on”! I am guessing that you knew this as well and that you did tighten the bracket bolts back up.
That leaves cause number three: It felt tight but it wasn’t.
The aluminum alternator mounting bracket holds the alternator at two points, one is fixed and the other has a steel “split sleeve” that it is a tight fit into the bracket when it is new. The sleeve is split so it can move when you torque the mounting bolt down. Doing so creates a “sandwich” made up of aluminum mount, alternator, split sleeve and the bolt that squeezes it all together. After a few years corrosion sets in and that sleeve seizes up. So when you think you have the bracket bolts tight enough there may be a gap between the alternator and the bracket. If you do not get the sleeve freed up, with the alternator moving on the loose bracket, your new turnbuckle will break just like the old one.
The fix is to get the sleeve free again. I usually heat the bracket first to loosen the fit. Since the sleeve is steel and the bracket aluminum it does not take much heat to break the rust bond. Then I use a long bolt and two sockets, (one the size of the sleeve and one larger than the sleeve), to push the sleeve back out of the bracket. Once it is out you can media blast the sleeve, sand the hole in the bracket, and reinstall the sleeve with anti-seize compound. The alternator is also easier to install with the sleeve pushed back out of the way. As you tighten the bolt you will notice the sleeve moving toward the alternator. When you apply proper torque to the mounting bracket bolt you will be getting an accurate measurement and the turnbuckle will no longer fail. The other issue worth noting is the condition of the bolt, threads, and the nut. I always install a new locking nut on the mounting bolts as insurance. If you are tracking your car Loctite™ on the threads would also be wise.
FYI: The air conditioning compressor on 944’s and 928’s are also secured with similar split sleeves. I have seen cars with compressors falling off the brackets for the same reason. If you are not sure if the bracket has a steel sleeve, use a magnet to check. It will save a lot of grief and a bit of money too if you take the time to get the sleeves back to like new function. MC
Q – I am interested in finding an early 70’s 911. I love the simplicity of the early cars. Where is the best place to shop for a car, which version is the most reliable, and are there any pitfalls for a carbureted 911? Once I find that car, how much should I budget for repairs? Thank You. Tom
A – First, if you picked up this copy of the P4 at a shop and aren’t a member of the Porsche Club, quit mooching, fill out the form, and join! You can join for six months if you do not own a Porsche and that should give you enough time to find a really nice one. Rarely do you find a great car on Craigslist; but look anyway. The reverse to your question might be: “where do I sell my Porsche”? My friend John found a great car on Craigslist at a very low price because the seller was uninformed about where to sell it and how to price it. You just never know! For price comparison and the nicest cars, check the Panorama, regional newsletters and Excellence magazine. The best cars usually stay within the club. You should also leave you name and number at some of the local shops. Occasionally a client will say “If you know anyone interested in buying this car, let them know about it”.
I prefer southern or western cars but I would consider a non-winter driven Midwestern car. ( That is how my Dad found his.) For obvious reasons, you absolutely must have it inspected by a specialist or a qualified shop you are comfortable with, BEFORE you buy it. Expect to spend some money if you want to get a thorough inspection, you should find their advice priceless. Then get a rough estimate for the cost of repairs.
I am tired of carburetors. I am a fan of the Bosch fuel injection systems. Although they may not be as fast as a 911 with Weber Carbs, I would not recommend a carbureted car unless you plan to regularly drive it and are comfortable using a fire extinguisher. Carbureted cars can be a pain in the butt! If you don’t drive them frequently, seals and gaskets tend to dry out in storage and if a component fails, they can leak fuel! For an occasionally driven car, fuel injection is far easier to live with and much easier to maintain.
Regarding the price, spend half to two thirds of your total budget for the car and save the rest for repairs and updates. My cliché is: “Good cars are not cheap and cheap cars are usually not good”. If you have a major expense, like an engine overhaul, you could easily spend up to twenty thousand repairing the damage and restoring the car to like new driving condition. That might be all well and good to you, but if you have to sell that expense to your better half, you might be wise to prepare them for the possibility up front.
A great guy with a very nice car went through this very process and although he started with an excellent car, he did not expect to replace the engine, clutch, axle joints, etc. When his wife found out what he spent, she hit the roof and demanded that he sell the car! That car can now be purchased for a fraction of his repair bill. So don’t let that happen to you. MC
Q – I want my 88 Carrera to sound better. I can barely hear the engine. Some of my buddies took their cat convertors off and they sound better than mine but I want to keep the cat since I don’t like the way their cars smell. I am thinking about a Dansk stainless steel muffler with dual tips. It looks simple with only three bolts and two big clamps holding it on. I am pretty handy and I was thinking about doing this myself. Got any tips? – Steve
A—I am familiar with the Dansk products and they are very nice indeed…top quality, great finish and they fit like factory parts. Installation should be fairly straightforward but there are a few issues that you need to be aware of.
Since the new muffler has two tips and your rear valence panel only has one cut out, the panel will need to be removed and modified if you decide to bolt it back on. I use the word “if” because some folks prefer to leave it off and look at that shiny stainless steel muffler. To get the valence off, there are a few Phillips head machine screws that you will need to remove. These steel screws in the aluminum bumper do not come out without persuasion. My method of removing them involves heating with an oxy/acetylene torch. As you judiciously warm up the bumper, the aluminum heats up and expands much more rapidly than the steel screw. The difference between the rates of expansion breaks the rust bond. Using a pair of mini vise grips on the shaft of the Phillips screw driver will give you just the right amount of leverage to unscrew them without a fuss. You will need to have the vise grips set tight enough that they are actually “digging in” to the metal of the screw, or they will simply slide around on the screw head.
Caution: Whether you are using a torch, map gas or a Bic lighter, flames, fuel and cars do not mix so have a fire extinguisher near by and a helpful friend to make sure you do not catch your hair (or your car) on fire!
With the valence off, prepare to unscrew the giant stainless steel band clamps that hold the muffler to the rear engine bracket. These clamps have a captive nut on the top and an Allen head bolt coming up from the bottom. They are very expensive and worth saving if you can. You should expect the bolts and nuts to be frozen from age and rust. I have seen some ugly attempts to loosen these. This next bit of advice can save you some grief and money.
Spray penetrating oil on the three cat-to-muffler bolts and the two band clamp nuts and bolts. Next chase the threads on the exposed part of the clamping bolt that sticks out of the clamp. If you don’t clean the threads, when you try to unscrew the bolt from the captive nut, it may seize and twist the clamp as you try to remove it.
The next surprise to the unwary is that the captive nut tends to spin in the band clamp as you try to unscrew it. This negates your effort to save the clamp! You can prevent this by gripping the captive nut with baby vise-grips. Now if you think you can unscrew that Allen bolt…Surprise! It is seized tight! So take the vise-grips off, light up the trusty oxy/acetylene “heat wrench” (Map gas will also get the job done) and apply enough heat to warm the captive nut cherry red. Then take a break and give it some time to cool a little, five minutes or so. Spray it with penetrating oil again. Be ready for the comment “what’s on fire” because it will smoke as it evaporates. This process is another method to break a rust bond.
Get hold of those captive nuts with the vise grips again, and then after a few small hits with an impact wrench the bolt should spin right out. Once the bolt is out, clean the threads of it and the captive nut so you can screw them in and out by hand and they are ready for reassembly.
Now you can remove the muffler: Caution: Before you try to unscrew the next three bolts, support the muffler by temporarily re-attaching those two bands to keep it from dropping on your foot. The muffler is secured to the cat convertor by three bolts and I guarantee that these bolts will not resemble bolts if you simply try to unscrew them. This is where the budding back yard mechanic earns his stripes (and learns a few new cuss works if he is merely assisting). Generally most under car exhaust components are attached with rusty bolts.
The easiest and cost effective way to remove them is by cutting the head off the bolt or the nut off the bolt depending on how easily you can access them. Even when you cut them, they will not come out of the holes without a fight. For this, I recommend an air chisel. Now I realize that you might not have an air chisel in your arsenal of tools but if you are going to work on your own car, it would be a good investment. Hobby quality tools are inexpensive and readily available at local tool stores. The action of the air chisel is two fold. It is an irresistible force that can push bolts through rust as it vibrates the components to turn rust into powder. As you get the last bolt out, it is time to celebrate. The hardest parts are over. As you sort through the pile of debris you can take stock of what you will need to put it all back together. You will need a new muffler gasket, three new bolts, six flat washers, and three nuts…all stainless steel if you can predict the future and live in Michigan.
So you are ready to install you new shiny cool muffler. Get two muscular friends to hold the muffler in position while you install the band clamps. You want the band clamps loose so you can position the muffler and wiggle it around as you install the three bolts to the cat. So just get the Allen bolts screwed into the captive nuts only four or five threads. I then usually install the easiest to reach bolt first (to see if I get lucky) then remove that first bolt and install the hardest to reach one. You notice that the Dansk muffler flange has oval shaped holes? Now you understand why! Due to production variations, lining them up is no problem. So now you have the three bolts started, the muffler roughly in position and it is time to align the tail pipes. Since the original muffler had only one pipe, alignment was not critical but now with two, if you don’t get them lined up, the tail pipes will be crooked.
With the new muffler on, your two beefy buds holding it in the best possible position, does it line up? No chance. What lousy luck…but you are not done yet. The cat is adjustable! Joy. That is, until you realize that you have SIX MORE RUSTY bolts to remove and replace in order to do it. In case you were wondering why it is so cockeyed, remember that your original muffler was hanging from just one three bolt flange for all those years and now it needs an “adjustment.” If you got this far, you are on the home stretch! So if you are willing to buy some tools, go through the work and do it well, it is a thing of beauty and your Porsche will sound like a Porsche should! The added benefit is that you will acquire new friends when they discover that you did it yourself and might have some tools they can borrow. With the money you save doing this yourself you can take your better half out to a number of very nice dinners as well. — MC
Q – I am thinking about buying a Porsche that I have been told it has a failed IMS bearing. The price is right and I wondered if you can determine how bad the problem is before I buy it. The owner said that he shut it off as soon as he heard the noise and he has not even cranked the motor over since. Should buy it or not? –Frank
A – Anyone buying a later model Porsche with the well-documented IMS issue should take that cost into account when deciding to buy or not. I recommend a Carfax report be obtained. Many reputable shops report to Carfax including dealerships, body shops and independent repair shops. A clean Carfax report is a worthwhile document to a prospective purchaser but one should not consider it the gospel. The Porsche official service records are even more important in my opinion. The history of a car is tracked by the VIN number by Porsche and if you can gain access to these records, they really tell the story of the car from day one. I cannot tell you if everything is in the history but it is worth a try.
As far as buying a car that you were told has a failure, no one can tell you how bad the problem is until the transmission is removed and the area exposed for inspection. If the price is low enough, and if you can budget for a replacement engine and still come out ahead, go for it! One caution…it is tempting to go for a “good used” engine for price considerations, but if you take into account the labor needed to put any engine in a car, you’d be better off spending more for an engine that carries a better warranty. A rebuilt engine from a reputable supplier will give you much more peace of mind.
Porsche used to supply a “turn key” engine assembly that involved taking the entire assembly out (unplugging it) and installing a whole unit, ready to go. That was a relatively easy swap especially since (I am told) it was a common service. When you purchase a used engine, odds are it will not be complete. Accessories and components will often need to be transferred from the old engine to the new and this can take hours. The other issue with a used engine is that the car it came from could have been wrecked or damaged enough to be considered a total loss by the insurance company or owner. Concealed damage caused by the “event” might come back to bite you during the swap and this can be disastrous if not merely annoying.
As the guy writing the check, I paid for hours of wasted time spent installing a “good used engine” for a client. If you get the impression that I am a little burned about it, you are doggone right. I did receive a credit back from the provider which covered a fraction of my cost so if you can learn from my mistake, good for you. MC
Q – I read your column about the battery problems with stored cars and I want your opinion of my current nightmare. I have a Cayman S and I store it in the winter time. I bought a battery maintainer and kept the battery on it all winter. This spring, I got in the car and it started fine but after just a few weeks it started to crank more slowly and then would not crank at all. The road service guy came out, jumped the car and it started so I took it right back to the place where I had purchased a Genuine battery a year and a half ago. The service consultant called and told me that the battery had failed due to sulfating. He further said that even though the battery is not very old, the warranty was void since I did not drive my car enough. Now I am really annoyed and $700 later, I have my car back. Have you ever heard of this? –Terry
A – This is a new one on me. I am familiar with sulfating but I am very surprised the problem could be so severe that your battery would be shot just over a winter. I can assure you that hundreds of your local club members store their cars with a battery tender without any damage to the battery. I have to wonder if your charger malfunctioned or if the battery was otherwise defective. I was also not aware that your warranty would be void on the genuine part if you did not drive the car enough.
As far as driving the car with a dead battery, at the risk of sounding like a broken record (if you remember those you might be as old as me), do NOT drive the car if the battery is dead! Tow it in or have the battery charged before you drive it.
But back to the battery issue: When you purchased your battery were you told that the warranty would not apply if you drove your car too little? I would want to know that up front, not a year or so later. I admit ignorance on the topic so I contacted my local parts manager. He informed me that “Genuine batteries are the only brand that we sell which have this limitation. That is why we do not recommend them. We sell two other brands that carry standard warranties without that stipulation. We carry the genuine brand for people who insist on an original battery.” So there you have it. When you know the difference, and when you know the limitations, you can make your own choice next time. If your service provider does not offer you a choice, or does not inform you about the warranty issue, you need to find a new guy.
As far as what to do now, I suggest that the battery be disconnected from the car during storage regardless of brand. Underwriters’ Laboratory-approved battery cut-off switches are an excellent way to do this without ever laying a tool on your car or getting dirty. With the battery disconnected, you can keep the battery maintainer on the battery but it will not have to work as hard since all the parasitic drains will be gone. The down side to shutting off the battery is that you will need to reset your radio stations, the air bag light might come on, and you need to remember to shut it off. I admit, I forget sometimes because I plan to drive it “one last time” before I put mine away and you guessed it…the battery is dead! MC