MC I have a ‘99 Boxster and I heard the convertible top is prone to failure and expensive once it does go. Is there any way to get more life out of a ragtop? –Ed
Hi Ed . Glad you came to me because there is no factory-supplied maintenance regimen for those.
I have found that some parts of the mechanism can vibrate loose. When they do, the mechanism can get out of index, bind, and bingo, the game is over (and you lose).
I suggest an annual inspection of the top to check for loose parts and a lubrication to keep things moving freely. Incidentally, when the top fails, the body sometimes bends. You can tell this has happened when the “clam shell” no longer fits flat.
The youngest Boxster that I have seen with this problem was only two years old. I was stunned at such an early failure until the client told me that he had left a two liter bottle of pop in the back when he put the top down. Big oops! $2,500 later, it was back to normal. –MC
Q – Hey MC, my 944 needs help. This winter, while I am not driving it, I wanted to work on my “wish list”. Here goes; The inside hood insulation is falling off in chunks and it looks terrible, the left turn signal does not cancel after I make a turn, the windshield washers stopped working, heat pours out constantly, the parking brake lever pulls up too far, radio reception is terrible, the gas gauge reads about ¼ tank lower than it should, the dashboard lighting is too dim, and my headlights seem a little dim as well. I love this car and I want it to work like it should but I am not sure that it is worth spending a lot of money on it. Teri
A – Wow, that is quite a list but nothing on it is horribly expensive. Some things you can do to keep your expenses down but some you will have to leave to the pros, here goes:
- The hood insulation is not very expensive as a part, but the labor is a pain. I think that most folks could tackle this job themselves but you had better set aside several hours for removing the old glue from the hood. Use only a plastic scraper, otherwise you may damage the paint. A very mild application of heat, using a hair-dryer turned on “low” and held several inches away from the hood, can help soften up stubborn glue. No matter how you approach this, it will be a messy and annoying job! By laying an old blanket across your engine, you can catch most (if not all) of the crumbs of old foam and old glue. Bear in mind that some of the aftermarket pads do not match the Porsche pads so be careful that you check them before you apply them. Once you are ready to apply the new pad, make reference marks with tape with north/south, east/west coordinates to line it up well. Get two friends to hold the pad once you remove the adhesive backing in order to line it up well. Once you press it in place, there is no going back.
- Turn signal cancelation is activated by a tab that extends from the bottom of the steering wheel hub (where you can’t see it). That tab engages a little finger that extends from the turn signal lever, into the steering column. Occasionally the steering column, which is adjustable, might be too far away from the steering wheel to allow the tab to engage the finger. You need to check that first. But if that is not the case, you will need a new switch; these are readily available but are somewhat pricey.
- The windshield washer pump sometimes fails so start there. If you cannot hear the pump motor run when you pull the lever, it may be dead or may not be receiving power. It is fairly easy to test for power with a voltmeter. Have your assistant pull the lever back while you listen and test. If the motor runs, but there is no squirt, you might have a faulty valve, valves, or clogged nozzles. The hoses have check valves that keep the squirter lines full of fluid for instant flow when you pull the lever. After many years, the rubber sealing washer inside the valve degrades into a gooey mess, which can clog the valves or nozzles. The nozzles, and check valves are inexpensive, readily available, and you can replace them yourself. My advice is to warm the hoses up with a hair dryer before you try to pull them off or you may find it impossible. Another common problem is squirt nozzles clogged with wax. Wax clogs can be avoided by using masking tape before waxing. You can clear them out and adjust the spray angle by using a small pin or needle. When you are working with the nozzles, don’t forget to wear safety goggles!
- 944 heaters have a plastic clip in the dashboard which always breaks. When it does, usually in July or August, the heat comes on full blast. This is one of the cheapest Porsche repairs ever. The clip costs almost nothing, compared to other Porsche parts you’re probably all-too-used-to; the labor to replace it is not very expensive either. Pay a pro to do it, it won’t hurt too badly.
- Parking brakes are cable operated and they do not self-adjust as do the normal disc brakes. If you forget to release it a few times and drove with it applied, it might need adjustment (or you can burn it out). Since it is just a parking brake and we live in Michigan as opposed to San Francisco, I would recommend an adjustment first. If you need rear brake work done in the future, or if an adjustment does not work, to access the mechanism requires removal of the rear calipers and rotors. Underneath the rear rotor “hat” are the cute little brakes shoes, bits and pieces that occasionally need to be replaced. If you are handy and well equipped with tools, servicing the system is a potential D.I.Y. process.
- The radio reception issue could be caused by the antenna connection at the windshield or an internal radio problem. Once connections are verified, you can plug in a known good radio and see if reception is improved. If the problem is the radio, I would spend very little to figure it out since higher quality replacements are both inexpensive and easy to install in the factory “DIN” mounting spot. The only tricky part on a 1986 car is the lack of an accessory position to power the radio up and more importantly power it down when you exit the car. There is a circuit in the ignition switch that can be tapped into to accomplish this however. With this modification, you battery will not go dead if you forget to shut it off.
- Fuel gauge inaccuracy is generally caused by connections between the dashboard instrument pod and the sending unit in the fuel tank. Based on ease of access, I would start at the sending unit and make sure the wiring connections are tight. You can also test the “full” calibration by grounding the signal wire which replicates a full tank. If the problem is not there, checking grounds at the instrument pod would be next. Finally, there is an adjustment for gauge accuracy on the back of the pod. That was even a surprise to me since the last time I saw an adjustable fuel gauge was on a 1979 VW Beetle.
- Dashboard illumination on a 944 is accomplished by spreading the light from a few bulbs to a much broader area by the use of diffusers. Diffusers are little clear plastic trapezoids strategically placed near the bulbs and attached to the pod. Two things happen that dim the lighting over time. Bulbs burn out or degrade, the grounds may corrode which reduces the available voltage and the diffusers lose their reflective coating that directs the light. I have had success repairing the diffusers by removing the remaining finish and covering them with reflective chrome tape. With good grounds, fresh bulbs and highly reflective diffusers, your dash lights will be back to normal. If you want more light, L.E.D. bulbs are available that work amazingly well. They are brighter and the color truer than normal incandescent bulbs. Everyone I have spoken with loves this upgrade. They are not very expensive. You can also upgrade your interior lighting to L.E.D. You can do that yourself although the dashboard work should be left to a pro.
- Headlights on 944s are inadequate in stock form…just my opinion. Installing Euro H-4 headlights have been the modification of choice for years and there are many different wattages available. Stock bulbs were “45/55”, the low beam was 45 watts and the high beams are 55 watt. Other sizes available include 45/80, 45/100, 55/100, and some as bright as 85/135! The problem is, the wiring on the car was not designed for higher wattage bulbs and to use them safety involves adding load relays wired directly to the battery to prevent overheating. The other disadvantage is the extra load that is placed on the alternator. Many years ago, high intensity discharge (H.I.D.) lighting was introduced to provide brighter, truer lighting with reduced electrical loads. You have seen them and if you have them, you would never go back. They are that good! For years it was cost prohibitive to retro fit older cars. But now, HID lighting is available at a reasonable price. The units are also compact enough to allow the ballasts to be mount directly on the headlight bracket of the 924/944 which makes for a very clean installation. So for stronger lights, we suggest phase one or two depending on your budget. But don’t forget, have you had the headlight aim checked? Even with the brightest bulbs, if they are poorly aimed, you won’t be happy.
Regarding your last question, whether it is worth it depends on your love for the car. Rarely is it a good investment to spend more money on a car than it is worth but that has never stopped me. I do it all the time because I am a fan, not an investor. Most people I know who own 924s and 944s love them. My first Porsche was a 944 and two of my brothers have them, one of each. So it boils down to is this: if you love the way the car drives and there is no other car that make you feel as good to be behind the wheel, do it for yourself, not your investment counselor. These cars continue to be one of my favorite test drives. I could afford one of every Porsche, another 944 would be on my list. . MC
Q – I recently had a water leak corrected in the hatch of my 944. The glass shop resealed the hatch and claim that the leak was fixed but still I have water getting into my hatch compartment. I tried to find the leak but no luck. Pete
A – My method of finding leaks is fairly simple. Remember how you found that leak on your bicycle tire? I fill a spray bottle with water and a small quantity of dishwashing liquid, then pressurize the cabin with compressed air or by turning the AC system up full blast. Then I start spraying the seams until I detect soapy bubbles. The common areas were these cars leak include taillights, hatch seals, and the one you already fixed, the glass itself. The annoying part about leaks on this model is the odor of exhaust that seeps into the cabin if the leak is large enough. That will kill a few brain cells! MC
Q – I am getting ready to store my car for the season and I have been warned about letting the battery go dead. I have the dealer-provided battery maintainer and I wonder what your opinion is. I was told NOT to disconnect the battery by some and I was told TO disconnect it. What the heck? Lauren
A – The car will not be harmed by simply disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, although the adaptively learned settings will default to basic, kind of like re-booting you computer. Fortunately, you do not have to reload the programs; the adaptive learning capability will do that for you.
When you first start it up after reconnecting the battery, usually your radio stations will need to be reprogrammed. On earlier cars, an “air bag” warning might be on and until the car re-learns your driving style (or lack thereof), it will not run its best. No problem.
The greater fear is voltage spikes caused by driving a car with a battery not fully charged. Rather than plow old ground, look at prior MC columns for all the dirt on that topic. The last alternator that failed was so toasted that the blown diodes not only sucked the power out of the battery but turned the unit into a powerful electro-magnet that attracted every tool within an inch of it. My personal preference is to disconnect the battery with a switch. MC
Q – My Cayman S track car has black scuff marks all over the clear bra that I had installed when I bought it. I have tried everything to remove them except sandpaper and I know if I do that, it will be a mess. I am thinking that I might just have to replace it. Got any tips? Pete
A – This is a tough one and while there is a solution I suggest you do not try it at home! There is a chemical that will remove it but in the process, it dulls the surface. This necessitates buffing the clear bra to get the shine back. Folks who have clear bras have complained about the dull finish for some time and they can be buffed and polished, just like paint. I did not name the chemical which works is because I do not want anyone to try it at home. The chemical can also remove paint if not carefully applied. For this one, take it to a detail specialist and let it be his headache. MC
Q – My 2006 Carrera has had a recurrent check engine light issue and the code that always set was for the camshaft position sensor. I would have the computer reset and a few days or even a week later, the light would come back on. My mechanic suggested either testing or a pre-emptive part replacement. I decided to just have the part replaced. As I was on my way to the shop, it began to stalling at idle but it always started back up and drove fine. The puzzling part is that when I dropped the car off for the cam sensor, the car would not start and now I am told that it has a failed crankshaft position sensor. They also told me that it could have a camshaft position sensor problem but until the crank sensor is replaced, they can’t say with any degree of certainty. Although the warning for the cam sensor has been recurring for a few months, the car never ran poorly or stalled. What do you think? Jerry
A – This is a good example of why you can’t trust computers. There, I’ve said it. I admit I am a dinosaur when it comes to computers. I know who to ask and here is the word: The computer expects to see the position of the camshaft relative to the position of the crankshaft and when it does not, it sets a code. It could also set a code if the sensor failed altogether but still the car would run. It will not run with a failed crank position sensor. Of all the sensors on the car, that is the one that will strand you alongside the road. Computerized cars have the remarkable ability of adding in a missing signal as a default if a sensor fails which then allows the car to run, albeit poorly. This electronic house of cards comes tumbling down when the computer cannot detect the crankshaft rotating or it’s position relative to top dead center (a critical reference point).. The camshaft position, while very important, is not a deal breaker but should not be ignored. The output of both sensors can be verified with an oscilloscope which is a fairly standard shop tool these days.
The odd thing is that there was no code for the crankshaft sensor. Had you replaced the cam sensor, I am sure the car would have stalled, to the great embarrassment to the unwitting tech who did what the computer indicated he should do. Replacing the failed crank position sensor will probably correct the computers impression that there was a problem with the cam sensor provided that the cam is working properly and provided that that sensor passes the oscilloscope test. Those dog gone computers!
So it’s a blessing! The car failed at the shop, on the tech, not you! You did not get stranded, the car did not need to be towed, you didn’t have to pay for a part that would not fix the car and, I trust, you have had many trouble free miles with no check engine light. MC
Q – I recently got my car out of storage. When I took it to my buddy’s warehouse I did not realize that the place was damp. When I went to retrieve it I was very disappointed to find that the car was wet and the leather had mold. Even worse, the clutch would not disengage. I had it towed to the shop and they freed up the clutch (it was stuck to the flywheel due to rust!) So I asked them to detail the car and now the paint is damaged. On the right rear corner of the car and right door there are tiny little bubbles in the paint and odd cross hatch marks are evident in the paint. I never saw these before and I have owned the car for years. What happened? Carl
A – I am not a paint expert so I contacted one of the best in the biz; Mike VanLoo. According to Mike: “Bubbles in the paint that appear months or years later are the result of the underlying finish lifting due to a faulty paint process. There could have been moisture in the base coat finish or the base coat might be incompatible with the original paint. Sadly, it will need to be stripped and repainted and to do it well will involve removing the rear window, door handle, mirror, rear bumper and on an older car like this, some new rubber parts will also be needed. In a nutshell, it ain’t cheap.” MC
Q – My 1980 911 SC has an odd problem. I recently took it in for routine service and the brake fluid reservoir was almost empty. I have had the car in religiously for oil changes and I have the fluid flushed as part of my maintenance ritual. I never had any warning and the brakes seemed fine to me. So naturally I was concerned about the leak and I asked them to check it out. Then the shop called to say that there was no external leak in the brake system. If there is no obvious leak, where is the fluid going? Judy
A – One part of the system that can leak and leave no visible evidence is the power brake servo. So unless someone forgot to fill the brake fluid reservoir, and that seems unlikely, you need to have the master cylinder loosened from the servo and the servo inspected for a liquid. I am betting that the servo is sucking fluid right out of the master due to a failed seal. Even with the best of care, on a 33 year old car, sooner of later, rubber parts deteriorate. Another tip off would be to inspect the vacuum check valve for the booster. If the rubber shows signs of deterioration, bingo, you are hot on the trail.
Once the leak is found, a complete inspection of the brake system is in order. On low mileage cars, but older cars, the hydraulic system suffers from lack of use. After you begin driving it after a winter lay over, the brakes may seem just fine until you take a hot run out on the freeway. You may discover that, although they worked great when you left, that final exit ramp can be thrilling, not in the fun way, when you push on the brakes. You may experience a VERY hard pedal but very ineffective brakes. It has happened to me a number of times and it makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up.
I know I have mentioned these before, but for those of you who have older cars, it bears repeating. Old rubber brake hoses can appear to be in fine condition externally but they eventually swell internally and act as “check valves” for hydraulic pressure allowing pressure to pass through, but causing the fluid pressure to be retained past the line even when you release the brake pedal. This can cause that thrilling brake fade that I mentioned. If you have an older car, be aware of this phenomenon and test for it before you are surprised by it. Replacing rubber hoses that are more than 20 years old with Teflon lined stainless steel hoses is very cheap insurance.
Finally, later cars have a switch that is built into the cap for the brake fluid reservoir; your 1980 does not have that switch. Therefore, you do not have the benefit of an advance warning indicating that your fluid is getting low. It might be a good thing to consider adding a later model cap, switch, and warning light to the car! MC
Q – My 1998 Boxster is giving me fits. I had the engine replaced about a year ago and since then it has been one thing after another. First a camshaft position sensor failed, I took it in and they found and fixed that. Then I discovered that my AC did not work but fortunately it only needed to be charged. So one more trip to the shop later, I am on the road again, loving my car. Then I was driving along shortly after that and I heard a loud “thud”. The car would not move so I had it towed in. I thought it was the clutch but it turned out to be an axle shaft which was never fully tightened. Four of the bolts simply fell out! And the other two sheared off. So I guess I should look on the bright side, it was not the clutch. When the shop fixed the axle they also found other parts missing or left loose. That should have clued me in.
Now last week I am driving it, warm and sunny, not a care in the world and the check engine light comes on and it loses power. I am really getting nervous about this car now. The code for the check engine light that was extracted is: ”#2 injector, open or short to ground” along with four other related codes. I am tempted to put the keys in it and leave it along side the road. I should mention that I did not have the engine replaced at a regular shop, I had it done via a friends recommendation at a race shop. They charged me a lot less and the bit of sage advice that I can offer is “You get what you pay for.” – Trevor.
A – Don’t leave the keys in it yet. An injector code can be something as simple as a harness plug not fully snapped in place. Other causes that I have seen include: Wiring damaged by rodents while parked in the garage, a wire harness chaffed by misrouting and very seldom, an injector that is actually short or open itself. Since the same guy who installed the engine had to put that all together, the process starts with accessing the top of the engine and then inspecting the harness, plug, and for good measure It would be a good idea to check anything else under the cover that is waiting to set a code an annoy you again. MC
Editors note: The injector was not fully plugged in, the clamp on the hose for the air mass sensor was not tight and the intake runner clamps were also loose.
Q—My ‘76 912 E just does not have the power that I expect…I had another one that ran better. Some smart-Alec said “put a six in it.” But I like the car, it is well-balanced, inexpensive and here I go again, defending my choice of Porsches. Brad
A –I sympathize with you Brad, for more than 50 years people have asked if my Hudson was a Mercury. Fools!…but back to your 912. The basic theory of engine power revolves around three things: air, fuel and spark, all in the proper proportions and at the right time. When you say it is not running well, trust your intuition. If you drive it far enough when it’s running poorly you can damage the engine.
To get the proper volume of air into the engine involves the air filter, air flow meter, engine valves and their proper adjustment. Once the air enters the engine, it has to be compressed. To verify this, you need to have the compression and cylinder leakage tested to determine the basic soundness of the engine. This also gives you the opportunity to inspect the spark plug coloration and condition. If you find one plug that looks different than the others, you might need to take a closer look at that one cylinder.
The next step in diagnosing and verifying performance issues is to perform an under hood inspection paying special attention to the electrical component wiring and connections. This inspection will also visually inform you of rubber hose connections, fuel lines, etc.
Spark to fire the fuel air mixture is another critical factor to making power. Common distributor problems include ignition points which burn or wear out, advance mechanisms that get sticky due to lack of lubricant, internal springs can be broken, weak, or fall off. Engine ignition timing and advance can be tested using a timing light with an advance dial. Old-timers have tools like these. Having a well functioning ignition system before attempting any advanced diagnosis is a must to avoid wasting time and money.
Your fuel injection system relies on sensors, wiring, voltage, injectors and the computer. Common issues include voltage losses due to old wiring or loose terminals, sensors that have gone out of range and that electro-mechanical device known as the “air flow meter” (AFM). Over a period of time, the AFM wears and it can send erroneous signals to the computer leading to an overly rich (too much fuel) or lean (too little fuel) mixture.
After the electrical system is put in order and rubber parts are corrected, then I get out the smoke generator. With smoke under low pressure, the intake system can be tested for leaks in the under hood components that lead from the AFM to the cylinders themselves. This is done to ensure that ALL the air entering the engine flows through the AFM. Air bypassing the AFM through leakage will upset the fuel mixture and cause the mixture to go lean (too little fuel).
So let’s say you have gotten to the point where the compression, cylinder leakage, ignition, electrical, breather, and vacuum systems all pass muster. Next step is fuel pressure. Your fuel pressure MUST be within specification or the engine will not produce power. The fuel pressure regulator on many models also has a vacuum hose attached to it which will increase fuel pressure during acceleration for more power. If that component were to fail you could get too much or too little fuel.
So with every component tested and verified while the car is stationary, how can you test it dynamically? On the road! For validation of the fuel injection system, I suggest a wide band air fuel ratio monitor gauge. In basic terms, this component “sniffs” the air fuel ratio at the tail pipe (or in the exhaust) and displays the results in real time. With this gauge, you can drive the car under various conditions to find out whether the engine is running rich, lean, or right on the money. This gauge works with fuel injection or carburetors and with it the fuel curve can be modified as needed to produce the maximum power your engine is capable of…even if it is a classic like yours. I like this method better than dyno testing since it is done under actual road conditions compared to simulated conditions.
Gone the way of the dodo bird, air flow meters, points, distributors and routine adjustments have been rendered extinct by the modern “engine management system”. Your classic cannot adjust it’s own ignition timing or fuel mixture but if you have the patience and budget to follow this process to the end, you can have another great running 912 E. The best part is once it is properly sorted out and tuned, it should rarely need to be done again. –MC