Q – I have a 1986 944 that I can’t get to start. I recently put a clutch in it and my leadfoot daughter drove it for about 300 miles then it died . . . as if someone turned off the key. Now I can’t get it started. I have replaced the coil, distributor cap, the DME relay, the computer and both crank sensors but still it won’t fire up. I even jumped the fuel pump and coil, still nothing. It was working fine until I let my daughter drive it. Help! A – Joe, don’t blame your daughter. It is probably not her fault. Since it sounds as if you have already fired the “parts cannon” at it, take it back to basics. I too would have started with the main relay after verifying basic mechanicals. A Bosch Motronic equipped car needs a signal from pins in the flywheel. Since you just did a clutch, did you check the signal from the crank sensors? If the computer does not “see” a strong signal from the sensors, it can get flaky. The odds of this are rare but how is that signal and how do those pins look? MC

Q – Bingo. When I checked the output of the sensors, it was about half of the required spec. Apparently when the flywheel was at the machine shop, they damaged the pins. I jury rigged a temporary pin and now it runs. Can you replace the pins without removing the flywheel?

A – If it were my choice, I would sure try to find a way. Pulling it apart may be the hard way but experience is the best teacher. MC

Q – I bought a 1986 944 and I love it! It is the best car I have ever had and I only paid 5 grand for it. I want to keep it up but I am confused. I saw an ad for a timing belt replacement that seemed reasonable. It was from a dealer but I have always been a little leery of them so I asked my buddy. He recommended a shop that wanted TWICE as much to do it! I was shocked. Aren’t dealers the most expensive place around?

A – I see what you mean and it is confusing. First consider that you have a 19 year old car. Then realize that advertised prices are there merely to attract your attention. NO one gets a comprehensive service for a bargain basement price. The reality runs somewhere in between. But the ad DID get your attention.

The dealer will actually do it for the advertised price and if that is all you can afford, I recommend having the dealer do it. Getting a good deal on a timing belt is better than ruining your motor while you save up the cash for the whole enchilada.

If you plan to keep the car however, you may want more things looked at than just the timing belt. As reasonable as 944s are to buy, many people who can afford to buy the car are shocked at how expensive they can be to keep up.

Timing belt work on old cars usually costs more than it did the first time around. Leaky seals, rotted hoses, dry idler bearings and corrosion are factors that make it more complicated and expensive. Even if a 944 looks great with it’s full galvanized body, they still wear out and our climate is not kind to the chassis of any car.

First things first . . . have the car inspected by someone who knows the car. If your car is normal, the belly pan needs to be removed and the whole front of the motor should be washed then inspected to see if anything is leaking. That will be money well spent to see what you bought. Do 944s tend to leak oil? Yes, they tend to when they get to be 19 years old, but any car or that age would, but 944s just look so good even if they leak.

If the car was “like new”, with no leaks, no immediate needs . . . you would have paid a lot more for it. Plan to spend an average of 25 to 50 percent of the purchase price of a used 944 in repairs and maintenance within the first year. Plan to spend 20 percent each year after that. The purchase price was just the cost of admission. Don’t even get me started about 928s!

Did you get a good deal? Well if it checks out well, and you can afford a 7 to 10 thousand dollar Porsche, you have yourself one fine driving, stylish sports car. I have had a number of 944s and I love the car. The best part is that you have joined the club and this is where the Porsche nuts can be found. Consider us your motorhead support group.

One way to benefit from a club resource is the tech inspections required prior to driver education events. A well kept secret is that you can get a free tech inspection even if you don’t actually go to the track. This is an excellent way to find out about the car and it’s free. (Don’t tell anyone you read it here.) MC

Q – I just bought a 1989 944 Turbo with only 27,000 miles. I love the car but the clutch pedal is very hard to push. My wife has a hard time driving the car. Is this normal for a turbo or will I need a new clutch?

A – Cross your fingers, you may be in luck. Rarely does a clutch fail at 27,000 miles. The clutch linkage probably dried up from sitting around in storage. Fortunately it can be accessed once you remove the starter. Once the starter is out of the way, the “clutch operating shaft” and most of the linkage parts can be lubed. You can get a good look at the clutch slave cylinder as well. At the conclusion of this process, I bet your clutch will feel better and your wife will like it too. If this doesn’t help, consider you wife’s taste in jewelry. The price of a clutch can really raise an eyebrow when the credit card statement arrives. MC

Q – I tried to replace the timing belt on my 944 and I am in a jam. I got everything apart except the top bolt on the camshaft. Not only is it very tight, the “star drive” socket has stripped the head of the bolt and it is down in a hole. I can’t get anything to grab hold of it either. How does that work?

A- Do it yourself timing belt jobs are sort of like “military intelligence” or “jumbo shrimp”. Something just doesn’t seem right. My opinion is that you can do a lot more damage than what it costs to pay someone who has done it before. But OK, I will get off my soap box. That pesky bolt has a very shallow head to screw it in. It also has Loctite on it to keep it from coming loose. Even pros strip them out.

The trick is to drill the head off the bolt (it is soft metal), remove the ignition rotor sleeve, grab the remains of the bolt with vise grips and remove it. New bolts are about $3.00. They are not worth a lot of struggle. MC

Q – My 944 steering feels loose. I have replaced the tie rods, control arms, struts, and stabilizer links but I am still getting a rattle. What did I miss?

A: My guess is the steering universal shaft. The shaft connects the steering column to the steering rack and I frequently find them detectably loose. The way to check for a worn shaft is to grab the shaft near the universal joint and see if you can move it side to side. Another method is to have a helper saw the steering wheel gently side to side while wrapping your fist around the joint. A small amount of slop when the car is up in the air, stationary, will translate into a rattle when driving the car. It is not dangerous, just annoying.

MC

Q – I tried to replace the timing belt on my 944 and I am in a jam. I got everything apart except the top bolt on the camshaft. Not only is it very tight, the “star drive” socket has stripped the head of the bolt and it is down in a hole. I can’t get anything to grab hold of it either. How does that work? — Erik

A – Do it yourself timing belt jobs are sort of like “military intelligence” or “jumbo shrimp”. Something just doesn’t seem right. My opinion is that you can do a lot more damage than what it costs to pay someone who has done it before. But OK, I will get off my soap box. That pesky bolt has a very shallow head to screw it in. It also has Loctite on it to keep it from coming loose. Even pros strip them out.

The trick is to drill the head off the bolt (it is soft metal), remove the ignition rotor sleeve, grab the remains of the bolt with vise grips and remove it. New bolts are about $3.00. They are not worth a lot of struggle. MC

Q – My 944 steering feels loose. I have replaced the tie rods, control arms, struts, and stabilizer links but I am still getting a rattle. What did I miss? — Mark

A – My guess is the steering universal shaft. The shaft connects the steering column to the steering rack and I frequently find them detectably loose. The way to check for a worn shaft is to grab the shaft near the universal joint and see if you can move it side to side. Another method is to have a helper saw the steering wheel gently side to side while wrapping your fist around the joint. A small amount of slop when the car is up in the air, stationary, will translate into a rattle when driving the car. It is not dangerous, just annoying.  MC

Q – I just changed the oil on my 944 turbo and when I started it up, I got no oil pressure. As I checked it out, I noticed the power steering pulley wobbling. I then checked the crank bolt and it was loose so I tightened it. I still had no oil pressure so I shut it off right away and took it apart I removed the front of the crankshaft and inspected the oil pump and every thing looks fine! I have been sitting on this problem for a year and I am at my wits end. – Stan

A – Okay, there’s really two questions in one here, and I’m going to answer the last one first. The power steering pulley is probably bent by being tightened down cockeyed. It sits in a relief at the end of the crank and it is easy to simply tighten it without holding it centered. That is probably why you found the crankshaft bolt loose after you tightened it. I know that whenever I tighten something that then comes loose, I wonder if it is early stage Alzheimer’s or what! Naturally the pulley sits very deep in the crankshaft main pulley so you can’t even see where you are working.

Oil pressure loss is freaky but It has happened to me too. Fortunately never while I was driving the car! Following a number of operations on the 944, the oil pump prime can be lost. I solve it by pressurizing the crankcase during cranking with the spark plugs removed. Pressurizing the crankcase pushes the oil from the pan to the pump and removing the plugs lets the crankshaft turn faster. This builds pressure without any significant load on the engine bearings since you never want the bearings to run dry of oil. This combination does it every time. – MC

Q – I tried to replace the timing belt on my 944 and I am in a jam. I got everything apart except the top bolt on the camshaft. Not only is it very tight, the “star drive” socket has stripped the head of the bolt and it is down in a hole. I can’t get anything to grab hold of it either. How does that work? – Steven

A – Do it yourself timing belt jobs are sort of like “military intelligence” or “jumbo shrimp”. Something just doesn’t seem right. My opinion is that you can do a lot more damage than what it costs to pay someone who has done it before. But OK, I will get off my soap box. That pesky bolt has a very shallow head to screw it in. It also has Loctite on it to keep it from coming loose. Even pros strip them out.

The trick is to drill the head off the bolt (it is soft metal), remove the ignition rotor sleeve, grab the remains of the bolt with vise grips and remove it. New bolts are about $3.00. They are not worth a lot of struggle. — MC

Q – Over the winter, I am re-bushing the rear suspension on my 944 S2. I plan to put in the Paragon Products hard compound poly graphite bushings. At D.E. I am aiming at the advanced group. Any tips that I should be aware of? I was warned that after a year or two, they will squeak – Erik

A – Sure Erik. First of all, are you planning on driving the car on the street? If you are, expect the car to ride considerably rougher than before since the hard compound bushings are…well, hard! For street use I recommend the softer compound.

Now I know that in the instructions, they tell you to liberally grease the bushings as you install them and that will be fine for a while. When the grease squeezes out though, dirt and water will get into the bushing and cause them to wear rapidly. Getting grease into the bushing later is impossible unless you engineer a method of directing it and have a grease fitting for it. Without regular lubrication, your passengers will ask: “What is loose in the back of your car?” – MC

Q – About a month ago, the clutch pedal on my 944 went to the floor and now I can’t shift. I can shift through the gears with the engine off but when I start the car, it lurches forward. Before it went all the way to the floor, it felt kind of mushy and the car was hard to shift. What happened? – Elliot

A – On your 944, the clutch pedal is linked to the clutch master cylinder which produces hydraulic pressure that is directed to the clutch slave cylinder. That action in turn pushes the clutch release bearing. The release bearing causes the clutch to disengage. My hunch is that your clutch master or clutch slave cylinders have failed or the flexible hose has ruptured.

Have you checked the brake fluid? When either cylinder fails, brake fluid which also feeds the clutch hydraulics can be lost. Typically when the clutch master fails, fluid will end up inside the car in the drivers foot well area near the clutch pedal. Sometimes the cylinder will fail with no leakage due to an internal valve issue. When the clutch slave cylinder fails, brake fluid leaks into the transmission clutch housing (and onto the ground). If the hose fails, the mess should be easy to see. Another far more insidious problem might be an internal failure inside the clutch itself but this is far less common, so we won’t even consider this until we eliminate the basics.

Start by checking the brake fluid. If it is low, inspect under the dash for signs of wetness. If nothing looks amiss, then remove the inspection cap in the transmission clutch housing (if it is even still there) and peer into the clutch area to detect wetness. Odds are it went one place or the other. Now if nothing is wet, and if the fluid level is OK, pressure bleed the clutch while exercising the pedal up and down and bleeding the slave. If clutch action returns, you win (for today). Some times in very cold weather, the clutch master will lose its prime and take in a big gulp of air leading to loss of pedal.

If you find wetness at either cylinder then the problem is obvious and the repair is inexpensive. Typically when a clutch slave fails, especially on a 20 year old car, I recommend that you also replace the clutch master since you can’t expect it to live much longer. While you are at it, inspect the flex hose for external cracks or discoloration around the ends that might indicate seepage. If you plan on keeping the car, replacing all three hydraulic components is the only guarantee that you will never have a problem for the life of the car. – MC

Q – I’m getting ready to do a clutch job on my ’87 944S. Like most, I’ve been to the web and shopped there. In the interest of keeping local guys in business, I thought it would be good to get a quote from my local shops as well. I’d like advice on what would be considered a “reasonable price” on this job. Also, if I get this out and the only worn part is the disc, can you guys resurface the flywheel and pressure plate and simply replace the disc? I’ve done this on American clutches, but never a Porsche. Some are telling me to just get a kit and make sure all is new. What are your thoughts? – Jeff

A – Thanks for your interest in keeping local shops in business. I assure you that they appreciate it! Clutch services on 944s are complex and expensive compared to any other car we service. Based on the labor alone to do the job, I have never done a “budget job” on a 944. An old mechanic once told me, “If you don’t take the time to do a job right the first time, somehow you will always find the time to do it over again!” It is just not worth the risk. The “reasonable price” is whatever price it takes to only have to do it ONCE in a 100,000 mile time-frame!

Another factor is the condition of the linkage components that keep it all operating smoothly. If you only focus on the clutch and overlook those related parts, you might miss the original issue. On my own car, I would inspect the components then make a judgment call about replacement or simply servicing. Any shop you choose can do that for you as well and it is a reasonable request. It will probably cost something for the inspection, but it would be cheap insurance rather than just firing the parts cannon at it!

Typically I recommend the kit since it is not exorbitantly expensive (compared to Porsche genuine parts) and satisfaction is guaranteed. At my shop, we rarely replace the flywheel but we always have it machined or surface conditioned in a media blaster or with an abrasive disc…just like a Chevy.

I gotta ask though…how does the clutch feel on your car and are you sure you need one? I just drove a 944 that had a bad clutch master cylinder causing the clutch to act up. If it still drives, take your car to a shop that has driven hundreds of these cars and let them take it for a drive. One test drive by a qualified technician’s is worth a thousand web opinions. There will be no shortage of volunteers. I know that when I test drive a Porsche, sometimes I pinch myself and think “You call this a job?!”. – MC

Q – I am thinking of buying a 944 Turbo and I want to know what to expect. The car was kept up very well by the previous owner but he took it to DE so I am concerned about what it will take to get it roadworthy and trackworthy. The car has about 100,000 miles on it and it is located in another state. Specific areas I worry about are oil leaks, timing belt, clutch, and turbo. – Matt

A- Well Matt, fortunately a 944 Turbo has about half the engine of a 928 S so the money pit will only be about half as deep. Now I am not knocking either model, they are my favorite test drives, but wow can they be expensive. But I digress:

First find a competent Porsche shop that has worked on hundreds of these cars, not just a dozen or so. With these cars, experience counts. Then get a written report of all the visual problems that can be seen and touched. Remember though, a visual inspection only goes so far. If you really want to get to know the car, you have to take it apart to some degree.

A visual inspection will tell you if the car has oil leaks or seepage and you should expect any older 944 to have dampness or dripping. The important issue is where and how much. Since the car is only going to be available for a short time at the shop checking it, ask for oil leak diagnosis as a separate operation of the inspection. Oil wetness should be washed off the powertrain, leak detection dye added then the car can be run in the shop while being viewed with ultraviolet light. If the leak is profound, you will probably find it. If the leaks or seepage are subtle, when you get the car back, you can view it again and see what needs attention. Some common failures are the cam cap seal on the rear end of the cylinder head, oil pan gasket, balance shaft cap seals, oil cooler, oil pressure sending unit, front crank seals and power steering hoses. After twenty years or so, you should expect to reseal all of these areas eventually.

If the car appears to be worthy, I would then have the timing belt cover removed and externally inspected. This costs more but it well worth it. Regarding the timing belt, if the previous owner has service history for the car…and he should…find out when it was done and get a copy of that (and all) invoices. Even with that, if you plan to track the car, expect to have the area restored once you get the car back home. The inspection will just give you an idea of how critical the need is. Replacement is cheap insurance in the long run.

Clutches cannot be inspected for long term condition or durability during a visual inspection. But during a road test by a qualified Porsche technician, an opinion of strength and function is possible. Common problems at this time in a 944s life include clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder failure. If the pedal feels spongy or does not return all the way, or if shifting into reverse produces a grinding sensation, you might have a problem developing in the linkage. The strength of the clutch is easily tested but again, you can’t be sure how long an original clutch will last. My suggestion: Budget for a clutch and use it as long as if feels and functions well. When the time comes, you will be ready since 100,000 miles is a very good lifespan for an original clutch, especially on a car that has been to the track.

Turbo performance is highly subjective. A strong turbo can hide weak engine compression. Therefore, be sure to get a compression and leak down test before you consummate the purchase. This is usually not necessary on normally aspirated cars. A competent evaluator can test drive the car to feel the performance but this is no substitute for a chassis dyno test. One dyno test is worth a thousand “expert” opinions. But if it feels strong and solid, you can do this when you get it home.

Some other things that I would expect to need based on the mileage are: Axle joints, boots, ball joints, radiator, central tube bearings, exhaust hangers or exhaust, rear torsion bar bushings, control arm bushings, motor mounts etc. A pre purchase inspection will help you make an informed purchase but with both eyes wide open, prepare to do a full mechanical restoration on this great handling, four seat sports car. A good internet resource is 944FAQ. MC

Q – I just fired up my 1985 944 and noticed the odor of fuel and it started kind of rough. When I opened the hood, I saw wetness around one of the injectors. Do the injectors just suddenly start leaking? – Ted

A – Well Ted, I have just begun to see this on vintage 944s and they do “just start leaking”. The bottom line is this: If you smell fuel, trust your intuition and shut it off.

There is a local outfit that can test and clean your injectors and the last time I ran into this, I took the three that were not leaking in for testing. They found one of them leaking but the other two OK. Foolishly, I assumed that I needed two injectors and replaced them. Of course, just after installing two old and two new injectors, a third one started leaking as well. The moral of the story is: Replace all four with remanufactured injectors and you will be done.

Now you are probably wondering why I, a person who always does his best (HA-HA-HA) would have only replaced two? New injectors run over $300.00 each and at that price point, I did not want to “over prescribe”. I have learned my lesson. I found reman units that are of good quality, have a decent warranty, and come with the seals you need to install them. I can promise no more fuel odor, better starting and better fuel economy as well. Oh yeah, and I only charged for doing the job once. I call that tuition. – MC.

Q – I plan on getting my 944 back on the road after having stored it for 10 years. What should I do to get it ready? Gino

A – Whew! Ten years of storage is tough on a car and the process may be complicated even once you get it running again. First things first, check the oil, coolant, install a fully charged battery, remove the spark plugs, disable the ignition coil, remove the fuel pump relay, oil the cylinders, change the oil and try to crank the car. As you crank it, you will probably notice that initially it cranks slowly then gradually speeds up. Crank it until you see the oil pressure gauge start to move (or the warning light goes out).

Once you get the engine oiled up by cranking you can reinstall the spark plugs and proceed with the fuel system. Drain the fuel tank as best you can and put in about two gallons of fuel, one can of “drygas” and about ½ bottle of Techron additive. It is very likely that you will need to remove the tank to get it clean but you can hope. After you get fresh fuel in it, disconnect the fuel pump and power it up with 12 volts positive and ground. If it actually runs, great! Usually after a number of years, the fuel pump will be seized. If you hear no sound, try reversing polarity of the power and ground on the pump and see it if will run backwards. If you get no fuel pump run at all, you will need to replace it.

So with the original pump functional or a new pump installed, you should have fuel pressure at the rail. You can check this in a number of ways but you are working with fuel and possibly spark so observe safety precautions during this step. The fuel pressure will be in the range of 40 psi plus.

The next step is to reinstall the fuel pump / DME relay and crank the car to see if it fires up. As you crank it, you should notice resistance in all four cylinders that will create what I call “cranking rhythm”. If you get uneven rhythm, you may have a compression or timing belt problem. But even if you “got rhythm”, It probably won’t start.

At this point, you will need to check for spark from the ignition coil. I would assume you will have spark since ignition on 944s is very reliable, even when they are stored for years. Caution: As you check for spark, be very careful that you do not become the ground side of the circuit. It can kill you! Rubber gloves may not be fashionable, but they could save your life.

Let’s say so far, so good; you have spark, but still it won’t fire up:

Now you need to check the injectors for pulse (with a volt-meter) and sound. If the injectors are not getting a pulsed-voltage signal, there is an issue with either the control unit(s) or the wiring. Break out the DIN diagrams, and pack a lunch, ‘cause you’ll be hunting all day! We tend to charge a LOT for electrical diagnosis, because it can be the most difficult thing to do on any given car…searching for a needle in a haystack is easy compared to searching for loose electrons in a wire!

If you ARE getting pulse, but no fire, you probably have clogged or “seized” injectors. As you crank the engine, the injectors should be clicking if they are not frozen due to old fuel residue. You can hear them click with a stethoscope. If you hear the injectors click, they still might be clogged and I would be surprised if they are not. So after a bit of cranking, pull a spark plug and see if it is wet with fuel. If it is not wet, put the plug back in, try a very brief shot of starting fluid into the air filter area and see if the engine tries to start. If it acts like it will start, stop there, that is all you need to know at this point. Do not try to run the engine on ether! This is only to verify that the engine can run with a fuel source.

If you have made it all the way to this point, and you have determined that the injectors will not spray fuel, you will need to remove them and send them out for rebuilding or replace them. A local source for this is Kinsler fuel injection in Troy. Now let’s say you get it to start and run. An engine that has been sitting for a long time will very likely have some collapsed valve lifters that will take a while to pump up. Don’t let a light rattle coming from the cylinder head scare you.

After you have gotten it to start and run, as it warms up, watch out for overheating since it is possible that the thermostat may be stuck. Once you are satisfied that it lives again, replace the fuel filter, fill the tank and add the rest of the Techron. Congratulations on a successful resurrection. But don’t try driving it yet. There is another chapter to this story so stay tuned. MC

Q – Last month you gave me some great advice about how to get my 944 out of storage after ten years and now I wonder what else? Gino

A – Clearly having a running engine is number one and now the next process is resurrecting the brakes. In many cases, the brake pedal will be high and the brakes may actually function. Don’t trust them! They will fool you and after a few trips around the block, they may be smoking and barely stop the car.

The plan is to verify that the brake calipers are freely moving and that the pistons retract after extension. Remove the wheels and remove the pads, one caliper at a time. Have an assistant gently depress the brake pedal and watch the pistons move out. If they actually move, have him/her release the pedal to watch them retract ever so slightly. The pistons will often move out, even when they are stiff. If after ten years of the pistons function, you are truly blessed. If not, you will need to consider your options regarding the brake system in general. Consider the pads, inspect the caliper boots, slide mechanisms, try opening a bleeder valve, inspect the hoses, inspect the rotors (pretty rusty aren’t they) and with the pads out of the calipers, how do the rotors spin and how do the bearings feel.

If you want the brake system to work perfectly, all those things need to be serviced and If you drove your 944 for 10 years and it sat for another 10, every rubber part of the system is suspect. For instance, the internal rubber components of the calipers, ever if they work today, cannot work like new after 20 years. And the flex hoses, even if they look fine externally, they tend to swell internally and then they act as check valves. So after resurrecting your car, brakes are the next major system that will need to be addressed. Stay tuned for next month where we get into the clutch system. – MC

MC – Last issue we were resurrecting a 944 that had been stored for 10 years. The clutch was the next system to consider. On an older 944 the clutch system is fairly simple. Unfortunately, it is located in the front of the car sandwiched between the engine and the central torque tube. This makes access somewhat difficult and after 20 years, you could have a problem after you begin driving the car.

First, let’s take care of age issues that I consider routine maintenance. When you push the clutch pedal down, does it return by itself or do you have to pull it up with your foot? If it goes down but won’t come up, you might have fluid loss, mechanical binding, or an adjustment problem with the “over center” linkage adjustment. If it’s like most I’ve seen, though, it is likely a hydraulic problem.

The clutch hydraulic system receives its fluid supply from the brake master cylinder reservoir. Just like the brake system, rubber parts don’t age well. It is reasonable to expect, if the car is more than ten years old, that you will eventually need to replace both the clutch slave and clutch master cylinders. Since this is a budget job, though, we’ll see what we can do while spending very little money.

To get a look at the clutch master cylinder you will need to be a contortionist and screw your skinny little upper body up under the dash to look at the clutch master boot and linkage. If you find it wet or dripping, the clutch master cylinder will need to be replaced. If it is dry under there, you are in luck! You can wiggle your way out of the car and get underneath the car now. This is fun isn’t it!

Jack up the car, put it on jack stands and look at the side of the bell housing just forward of the starter. You should see a round 40mm rubber plug (or just an open hole where the plug used to be.) Pull the plug out carefully, you’ll want to re-use it later. Through that hole, you can view the action of the clutch slave cylinder while you have one of your buddies push the clutch pedal assuming that the clutch master is producing pressure. If it works, you are in luck…your system is producing some pressure. You should start by bleeding the system (see below) and then checking for proper disengagement. You will still need to plan on replacing the slave and master eventually, but you may be able to buy yourself a little time. Check again for leaks at the master after the bleed. The seal on the master may be deteriorated just to the point that it will hold pressure for a while, but leak down later. If you DON’T plan on performing the maintenance listed below for the slave cylinder, check it REALLY well for leaks after the bleed or you’ll be sorry later.

Even if the system will hold pressure, you can bet your bottom dollar that the innards of the cylinders are not in prime condition after the car has been sitting so long. Even if I was going to replace the slave later, I’d still want to try to clean it out, if only on principle. I would remove the clutch slave from the trans housing. On a bench, dismantle it and clean it well. If the bore is rusty or the rubber boots or seals are ugly, replace it. Typically, the slave cylinder lives only half as long as the clutch master cylinder which is not surprising considering the environment it lives in.

The other clutch components that should be serviced at this time are the clutch fork, pivot shaft, and bearings. In typical Porsche fashion, the pivot shaft runs on needle bearings. These bearings dry out since they are located inside the bell housing and get bombarded by clutch wear particulate. The shaft develops wear pockets where the needle bearings ride on it and between the dry bearings and pocketed shaft, the pedal can feel a little stiff and crunchy on an older 944 (and 911 as well).

You can remove the shaft and lubricate the needle bearings without major disassembly and this is a very smart thing to do. If you find that the shaft is not smooth and a little pocketed , you can gain another lifespan out of it by grinding another “flat” (where the set screw holds it in place) 180 degrees opposite the original flat. With this, the bearing rides on a fresh bearing surface. It only takes a couple of hours on average, and is well worth it in terms of both pedal feel and smooth actuation.

At this point with everything apart take a good look at the clutch and flywheel assembly and see if you can find any chunks of black rubber debris in the bell housing area. If you do, you might as well plan to replace the clutch since the clutch disc is “chunking”. (not a technical term) On many Porsche, the original clutch has a rubber center to dampen vibrations and eventually they fail. It you find no rubber parts, you win and you can start putting it back together.

So you have inspected all the parts, you have the shaft cleaned up, and the slave checked out. If you’re like me and want to maintain everything in beautiful shape, you’ll want to take this chance to clean and prep the bell housing area. The first word of caution is: Do not try to clean the internals with any spray cleaner. If you do, you can contaminate the clutch bearing or wash debris into the clutch. I use a long Q-tip with mineral spirits to clean the rubbing surface as best I can. The lubricant that I use for the bearings is a Wurth product called HSS-2000, a penetrating grease that sprays on with the consistency of WD-40. The carrier fluid evaporates and leaves the gooiest, stickiest grease I have ever seen. While the shaft and clutch slave are out of the car, you should spray some MolyKote dry lubricant on the rubbing surface of the clutch bearing, clutch “fingers” and the clutch bearing support. Now you’re ready to reinstall the slave, although you may want to take the time to clean off all the nuts and bolts, lube up the holes with anti-seize compound, that sort of thing…the next guy to take this apart will thank you, especially if it’s you!

Once everything is back together, you are ready to bleed the system. The first surprise is that when you push the clutch pedal down, it does not return. Remember the over center mechanism? This is the linkage designed to help you keep the clutch pedal down on the floor while you are at a stop light. You have to overcome this linkage and pull the pedal back up to continue your bleeding process. Try a piece of rope wrapped around the pedal.

After bleeding, the pedal should return on its own. If it does not, the mechanism may need adjustment or the master may not be able to hold a “prime”. Occasionally, in spite of your best efforts, you can get everything right and find that the master gulps in air when you release the pedal. Assuming it all works as expected, you have probably spent a full afternoon on this process. But, the clutch action should be silky smooth. If you’re lucky, you won’t have to do it again for years. Oh…and one last thing, if you want that 40mm rubber plug to stay in place, glue it in. MC

Q – On my 89 944 the hood shocks failed and I bought new ones but they are too long. I can’t get them on! Charlie

A – Yes they are too long and tricky to install too. If you disconnect them and lift the hood high enough to get the new ones on, you can break the windshield. I know, I have done that and it was quite expensive! So the trick is get two buddies to help. Have your friends hold up the hood while you install the bottom of the shock first. Then, with all your weight, get the shock compressed enough to slip in the top pin. They are super strong and you may curse a little but you can do it. Just don’t try to do it alone. And never grip the polished shafts with pliers or you will ruin the shocks. One last caution…when you are trying to lean on the shock to compress it, grip the body of the shock as tightly as you can…you’re going to be trying to pilot it into a bracket with a sharp corner, and if you slip, you can gash yourself pretty bad. Good luck! – MC

Q – As I leaned on the console of my 89 944, the top of the cover slid off the console when the hinge broke. I tried rigging it through various means but it always breaks again. – Fred

A – Fred there is no good fix for that hinge except to replace it. It comes as a whole assembly but last time I checked, you could buy that part from the dealer for less than thirty dollars. It seems like a lot for a piece of formed plastic but it pales in comparison to some of those plastic parts on the newer cars. – MC

Q – I opened the glove box on my 1986 944 and the two plastic brackets that keep it from flopping to the floor broke, one right after the other. They are part of the glove box door and when I checked on the price of a new door I practically passed out. Does anyone make a repair part for it? John

A – I like making things. And I would rather repair something than buy it new, provided it is cost effective. The solution I used on my 944 was some thin gauge aluminum cut in the pattern of the original broken part with an added flange to secure it under the inner cover of the door. With some small screws that won’t poke through the outer cover, the repair pieces can be glued in between the inner and outer parts and only you will ever know that it was ever broken. – MC

Q – My 944 climate control doesn’t work and I am planning to drive it this winter so it has to keep me warm. When I rotate the fan control knob, nothing happens, it just spins. When I rotate the temperature control, I get no heat. Got any hints? This is going to be my daily driver and I’ve got plans for it but I need to keep the bill at a minimum right now. Calvin

A – It is a rare individual who plans to drive a Porsche in the winter, and I salute you, sir. I have driven my 944 in the winter too and it is an excellent car with all season tires and about 300 pounds of sand in the rear hatch area. No problem, except for the salt! Wash the underchassis regularly. But I digress…

The problems you are having could turn out to be quite expensive. For now, I will just focus on getting heat. First of all, the climate control should fail safe in defrost mode, full heat and yours does not. Have you had any cooling system work done on it? Sometimes an air bubble will keep the coolant from flowing through the heater core. Assuming there are no bubbles and that warm coolant is reaching the valve, to see if the heater could work, disconnect the vacuum hose to the control valve, in the engine bay at the center of the firewall. You should now get heat. The heater control valve is the same part as used on older Audi 5000’s and when vacuum is absent, it goes full open, full heat. If you still get no heat, remove and inspect the valve. I have seen some where the lever moves but it is not connected to the flap inside the valve.

As far as the fan, sometimes the knob simply breaks free from the shaft. Pull the knob off and see if you can rotate the inner part of the fan switch shaft. If you can turn the fan on…simple, a new knob fixes it. If you only get high speed, the fan resistor might have failed. The resistor fits onto the blower box, driver’s side top and it is one of the easiest fixes for missing fan speeds.

This should get you heat and hopefully by next spring, you can take the diagnosis to the next point and get the temperature control functioning again. – MC